Tasting Highlights: California Rhône
Nine exceptional new Syrahs and Grenaches from Santa Barbara and Paso Robles.
James Laube

Posted: Monday, December 01, 2008

If this were a wine quiz and you were asked to name two of California's hottest wineries of late, one correct answer would be Booker and Tensley. These two wineries have recently made nine super wines from Paso Robles and Santa Barbara respectively.

Booker Vineyard is in Paso Robles, the appellation midway between Los Angeles and San Francisco, which continues to make huge gains in quality. Saxum's bottling of a great 2005 Rhône-inspired red from this property opened our eyes, and now the 40-acre vineyard on Paso's west side, next to Stephan Asseo's L'Aventure, has its own label, with this being the largest output yet. The focus is on Rhône reds, namely Syrah and Grenache, but also with a little Cabernet thrown into the Alchemist bottling.

Vintage 2007 is Joey Tensley's best yet. He's been a steady producer of exceptional Santa Barbara wines since 1998. All four of these Syrahs are simply delicious, and the two special magnum-only bottlings, the OGT (for Tensley's son, Oliver Gunner Tensley) and BMT (for his niece, Bailey Michelle Tensley) offer a perfect contrast in style: The OGT is supple and elegant, while the BMT is dense and chewy. Produced only in magnum, buy a few and cellar them a couple of years. Fabulous now, they should only get better.

TENSLEY Syrah Santa Barbara County OGT 2007 Score: 95 | $85/1.5L
This supple, full-bodied Syrah shows exquisite balance, with a complex mix of loamy earth, dried currant and wild berry fruit that's pure, focused and even delicate given its size. Ends with a long, smooth finish that keeps returning to the fruit themes. Very tempting now. Best from 2010 through 2017. 122 cases made. —J.L.

TENSLEY Syrah Santa Barbara County BMT 2007 Score: 94 | $85/1.5L
Dense and chewy, this is a perfect contrast to the Tensley OGT bottling, packed with chewy blackberry, wild berry, floral, spice and cedar notes. The tannins end with a gripping yet supple aftertaste that keeps the fruit at the forefront. Best from 2010 through 2016. 117 cases made. —J.L.

TENSLEY Syrah Santa Barbara County Colson Canyon Vineyard 2007 Score: 94 | $38
Firm and musclebound, with rich, chewy tannins. Full-bodied, this is the most complex and potent of the 2007 Tensleys, offering layers of earthy wild berry, sage, mineral, dried currant and floral scents. Drink now through 2016. 1,259 cases made. —J.L.

BOOKER Syrah Paso Robles Fracture 2006 Score: 93 | $50
Surprises with subtle dark berry nuances, exquisite balance and detail. Full-bodied, ripe and marked by vivid wild berry, black cherry and boysenberry fruit that's snappy and chunky on the finish, almost like biting into a fresh berry. Drink now through 2013. 193 cases made. —J.L.

BOOKER Syrah Paso Robles Vertigo 2006 Score: 92 | $50
Intense and complex, with a tasty, full-bodied mix of ripe, dry currant, mineral, sage and loamy earth, all compelling and detailed, maintaining a sense of elegance. This has great structure. Drink now through 2014. 330 cases made. —J.L.

BOOKER Grenache Paso Robles The Ripper 2006 Score: 91 | $55
Complex and balanced, with a tasty display of ripe berry and dried currant, mineral, fresh earth, cedar and pomegranate, firming up midpalate and ending with firm tannins. Drink now through 2014. 136 cases made. —J.L.

TENSLEY Grenache Santa Barbara County Colson Canyon Vineyard 2007 Score: 90 | $32
Tight and structured, with fresh earth, firm tannins and a mix of wild berry and black cherry fruit that's intense and vibrant, better with each sip. Drink now through 2013. 120 cases made. —J.L.

TENSLEY Syrah Santa Barbara County Tierra Alta Vineyard 2007 Score: 90 | $38
Tart and vibrant, with snappy huckleberry, blueberry and wild berry fruit that's tasty now yet has the backbone and structure for future enjoyment. Full-bodied and awfully tempting today. Drink now through 2014. 330 cases made. —J.L.

BOOKER The Alchemist Paso Robles 2006 Score: 89 | $40
Supple and full-bodied, with ripe plum, black cherry and spicy berry notes, gaining complexity and nuance and ending with firm, ripe tannins. Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now through 2013. 275 cases made. —J.L.

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